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by N. A. Ross
edited by Manos Angelakis
photography by TAT (Thailand Authority for Tourism)
Gleaming skyscrapers grace the skyline alongside awe-inspiring Buddhist temples and palaces with stunning, glittering decorations. Bangkok is a fascinating, vibrant, and colorful city, even though the climate can be extremely unfriendly to Westerners not used to Thailand’s three seasons: Hot, Hotter, Hottest. In contrast to the climate, Bangkok’s residents are friendly to foreigners and very polite.
 Bangkok is the capital city of the Kingdom of Thailand, a constitutional monarchy since 1932. The official name of the city is “Krung Thep”, which means The City of Angels; Bangkok is a name given to it by Westerners and is probably a corruption of the town’s old name “Ban Makok”, Village of Olives. Bangkok succeeded the earlier royal cities of Sukkothai and Ayutthaya and has been the center for government and culture as well as the seat of The Royal House. Bangkok is also Thailand’s center for international commerce while many of the traditional industries, such as food preparation, silk factories, sawmills and paper works are mostly located along the banks of the Chao Phraya river and the city’s outskirts.
Bangkok’s population is an ethnic mix that in addition to the indigenous Thai includes Chinese, Indians, Burmese, Malays and, more recently, Europeans, and Americans. A number of the multinational financial and mercantile companies headquartered in Hong Kong, moved to Bangkok when China took control of Hong Kong from the British and that caused an influx of both affluent Hong Kong Chinese and Europeans.
 The Chao Phraya River meandering through Bangkok’s center is the waterway along which numerous luxury hotels have been erected, including the venerable Oriental – always rated either the best or the second best five-star property in Asia. The river and the canals emanating from it (klong) are still the easiest way to travel to different parts of the city, as the traffic on the streets is chaotic with cars, trucks, and the ubiquitous and infamous tuk-tuks vying for the limited amount of space. When you ask how far it is to get from one point to another, the answer usually is “from ten minutes to two hours, depending on the traffic”! Most luxury hotels have their own fleets of luxury cars.
Tourism is one of Bangkok’s main industries; there are over 16 five star luxury hotels in the city. Banking and shipping have become far more important, especially since Thailand’s exports of food and textiles have exploded in recent years.
 The walled city-within-a city, the Grand Palace and the sacred precinct of Wat Phra Kaeo – site of Phra Borom Maha Rajawang, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is a most impressive collection of over one hundred individual buildings that offer visitors a panorama of over 200 years of Thailand’s monarchic, cultural and religious history. Ask the concierge at your hotel to arrange for a guide and transportation for a visit. It is a must-do highlight for any Bangkok visitor.
 We got up very early one morning to avoid the heat, to visit the floating market of Klong Bangkok Noi Dalaad Naam, images if which are seen in most tourism brochures, posters, and books about Bangkok. Unfortunately, a site that I’m sure used to be very special and photogenic, is now mostly covered by numerous tourist boats; very few actual seller boats were to be seen. Do not waste time and money going there, unless, of course, photographing tourists trying to photograph the few pitiful remnants of the original boat-stalls turns you on.
Instead, a location outside Bangkok deserves a visit.
It is the ancient city of Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital. What was probably one of the loveliest cities in Asia is now a giant site of ruined temples and palaces . For over 400 years, from 1350 to 1767, Ayutthaya was the seat of 33 kings from diverse dynasties. The sacking and total destruction of the “Pearl of the East”, as Ayutthaya was named by Europeans admiring the splendor of its palaces and hundred of temples, was in the hands of marauding Burmese, after a 15-month long siege. The best way to see Ayutthaya is arriving by boat and departing by bus or vice versa. Luxurious, air-conditioned boats that can ferry up to 40 passengers depart very early in the morning from a landing by the Oriental’s Author’s Lounge. It is a very interesting trip up-river as the boat passes by rural farmhouses and small villages on the banks, ruins of ancient cities and temples as well as colorful modern temples built in typical Thai style, factories, and rice farms. Air-conditioned busses meet you on arrival and take you to the site’s entrance. The same busses will pick you up at the end of your visit and take you back to the city, traveling through the countryside. We were in Thailand during the hottest time of the year, when the Songkran celebrations take place. Songkran is the Thai traditional New Year that starts on April 13 and lasts for 3 days. On April 13 is Maha Songkran Day or the day to mark the end of the old year, April 14 is Wan Nao, which means “the day after”, and April 15 is Wan Thaloeng Sok when the New Year actually begins. People from the rural areas who are working in the city usually return home to celebrate the festival. Thus, when the time comes, Bangkok temporarily turns into an almost deserted city. The celebration is also known as the "Water Festival" as people believe that water will wash away bad luck, therefore splashing each other with bucketfuls of water; it is also an excellent way to battle the unbearable heat. Even elephants will cheerfully participate. Most hotels on this occasion offer Buddhist ceremonies and stage celebrations; both are interesting to attend.
© June 2006 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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