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Story and photography by Barbara Penny Angelakis
EGYPT
The Land of Eternal Delight
Egypt… a land of mystique and enigma… with one foot firmly anchored in the past and the other seeking a secure footing in the future. Egypt is home to a treasure trove of monumental structures. The construction techniques for some are known, but to this day, many others remain shrouded in shadows of myth and conjecture. Egypt is home to one of the world’s most creative and innovative civilizations. Its people built a far-reaching empire out of the sands of time and even after the collapse of its monarchy as a form of governance, it managed to miraculously adapt to the modern world with grace and style, literally using the wonders of the  past as building blocks to the future. Little could the Pharaohs, with the backbreaking labor of their faithful minions, have imagined that the tombs and colossal architecture they built to guarantee their existence in the afterlife would, thousands of year’s later, draw millions of visitors from all over the world to stand in awe of their accomplishments. Where did these people come from and how did their civilization rise so rapidly? This is one of the many mysteries that makes Egypt utterly fascinating, and calls you back time and again, hoping that you will be the one to discover its secrets.
Romanticism aside, the Pyramids on the Giza plateau are the only structures remaining of the seven wonders of the ancient world. They are so massive that they can distinctly be seen from space, and they, along with the mighty Sphinx, must surely be at the top of your go-to list… and if they are not, they should be! Of course, Egypt is more then mighty monuments and beautifully painted art still visible on burial tomb walls after thousands of years. One cannot consider Egypt without also considering the Nile, which presents the greatest mystery of all. The Nile flows from south - out of Africa - to north - into the delta at the top of Egypt, until its nourishing waters come to rest in the Mediterranean Sea. So, lower Egypt is actually at the top of the country, and upper Egypt connects to Africa and the lands south of the Tropic of Cancer.
There are many ways to travel the Nile and each one offers a uniquely different experience. First, there is the small sail-driven single-operator felucca. My first night in Cairo was spent at the Semiramis InterContinental Hotel that is just a hop, skip and jump away from the Nile and its beautiful views of the west bank… they say on a clear day you can see the Pyramids from the upper floors. The Semiramis was one of the premier hotels of the 20th century and it has recently undergone a complete modernization bringing it up to the 5-star hotel standards that are required by a 21st century travel, either for business or pleasure. It is in the heart of the city and within walking distance of The Egyptian Museum and its fabulous treasures from Tut Ankh Amun’s tomb. www.intercontinental.com
As a special treat, we were invited to breakfast on a felucca. The morning dawned bright and beautiful with a clear blue sky and gentle winds… perfect sailing weather. Off we trotted to the quay across the road after hotel personnel bravely stepped off the curb in order to stop the flow of traffic… no small feat in Cairo. There was a line of felucca’s awaiting our arrival with a table set with linen and china and a 5-star breakfast of fresh squeezed fruit juices, hot coffee, still warm from the oven pastries and breads, platters of cheeses and meats, fruits, yogurts and cereals, and a waiter at the ready to serve us. We pushed off from the dock and the wind caught the sails as the helmsman deftly tacked to and fro while we enjoyed our meal, the warmth of the sun, and the company of our companions.
For an extended visit on the Nile with stops along the way at the temples of Abydos, Dandara, Luxor and Karnak, Esna, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Philae and the High  Dam at Aswan or for air connections to visit the striking temple complex at Abu Simbel further upstream, you would take a Nile cruise boat. There are dozens to choose from, all well appointed with large cabins, full bathrooms, dining areas, shopping opportunities and shore excursion guides on board. Or, you could do what I did, and enjoy the Nile from a Dahabiya, a boutique sailboat that was like being on your own private yacht. Dahabiyas are larger than a felucca, some 50 meters long, but not under the motor power of a Nile cruiser. The only down side is that when the wind is not blowing in the direction you are moving, you must be pulled by a tugboat which unfortunately is powered by diesel fuel.
 The Dahabiya I was on was brand new; a spacious, beautifully polished, wooden boat, with comfortable deck couches and an open bar. Lounge chairs and an outdoor Jacuzzi with shaded zones for dining al fresco completed the upper deck areas. The Dahabiya had 8 large air-conditioned sleeping cabins with wide-window viewing of the passing scene, a queen sized bed or two single beds, LCD flat screen TV with built-in desk area on which fresh fruits and sweetmeats were placed, mini bar, in-suite digital safe, and a travertine tiled bath with full shower and roomy washstand with mirror on top, magnified shaving/make-up mirror, hair dryer, Egyptian cotton towels and an amenity package that included candle and flowers. Because the Nile does not produce waves, there is no fear of becoming seasick and everyone on board was able to eat the appetizing meals prepared for us. Breakfast and lunch were served buffet style while dinner was a sit-down, waiter served, full course meal with the chef happy to accommodate our food requests. Every meal started with appetizers and salads that were fresh and delicious. This was indeed a treat since on prior trips to Egypt it was a no-no to eat uncooked food. Things have changed a lot in the last few years and while I still am cautious about sticking with bottled water even for brushing my teeth, the easing of food restrictions means that using tap water cannot be far behind in terms of safety and taste.
One soft balmy Egyptian evening we were having pre-dinner cocktails on the deck when out of nowhere, a huge wind came up and sharp flying sand assaulted us. Calmly we were informed that dinner was ready and ushered downstairs while the wind blew mercilessly. We were experiencing a Khamasseen - or Chamsin - which loosely translates to “the fifties” because this sandstorm can arise anytime during a 50 day period. After our  delightful dinner that night, the howling wind lulled me to sleep as I imagined myself a character in an Agatha Christie novel, gliding up the Nile trapped on a boat in a sandstorm… very exciting. When we awoke, we were invited to enjoy breakfast in the dining room while the crew labored to clean the deck of the thick sand deposits left by the storm. In a short while we were allowed back on deck where we were greeted by a beautiful blue sky and bright sun and the sail fully extended to take advantage of the breeze. I am used to rainstorms and snowstorms but never before have I experienced a sandstorm. It was a serendipitous experience that made me even more aware of the accommodating attitude and attention to my needs that I encountered on this trip. For this I must thank the Emeco Travel team (www.emeco.travel) a highly efficient and well organized land operator with multi-lingual personnel that can provide any exotic service that your imagination can conjure… just short of a sandstorm, that is.
For information:
Egyptian Tourist Authority
630 Fifth Avenue, Suite 2305
New York City, NY
212-332-2570
www.egypt.travel
Semiramis InterContinental
Corniche El Nil
Cairo 11511, Egypt
+20 2 2795 7171
www.intercontinental.com
Emeco Travel
2, Talaat Harb Street
Cairo 11111, Egypt
+20 2 2577 4646
www.emeco.travel
© May 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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