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By Manos Angelakis
Drams of distinction.
Islay (a Gaelic word meaning island) is the southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides, located off the west coast of Scotland. Its main industries are malt whisky distilling - there are eight active distilleries on the island - and tourism, largely based on whisky and bird watching.
One of the oldest distilleries, located on Islay, is Laphroaig. It is named after Loch Laphroaig, on the southern coast of the island. The distillery was established in 1815, by Alexander and Donald Johnston but rumor has it that the brothers actually built it around 1810 when they started farming in the area. The Johnstons who founded Laphroaig were from the MacIain branch of Clan Donald. The family anglicized their name to Johnston. Laphroaig has been the only whisky to carry the Royal Warrant of the Prince of Wales (the 15-year-old is reportedly his favorite scotch), which was awarded in person during a visit to the distillery in 1994.
Laphroaig is considered one of the most strongly flavored of all scotch whiskies, and is most frequently aged for 10 years; an 18-year-old expression has recently replaced the 15-year-old that was commonly available as an upscale version, and had received the Royal Warrant. A 30 year old expression has also recently become available, and though rare, it is a real treat for a whisky aficionado. More recently (2004), the Laphroaig Quarter Cask was introduced. By using smaller butts, the Quarter Cask Single Malt is supposed to taste like the type of whisky that was distilled (illicitly) 200 years ago by the original Johnston Brothers. Due to the smaller barrel, the oak surface contact is 30% greater than with standard barrels. The Quarter Cask is also bottled at 96° proof, or 20% stronger than a standard whisky (the accepted standard for whisky is 80º proof).
We recently called together the “gang of the usual suspects” to taste the 10- and 18-year old versions, as well as a 16-year-old Lagavulin, another Islay whisky-making neighbor that is also considerably smoky. Both distilleries create full bodied single malt whiskies that are gold colored, with a surprising sweetness, and hints of saltiness on the long finish.
The Laphroaig versions were considerably smokier than the Lagavulin. The soft sweetness and velvety feel were evident when first tasted; then the intense peatiness and the warming smokiness so unique to Laphroaig came bursting through. Sweet, creamy, and spicy with some meaty notes. Toffee, vanilla, some melon, and dried apricots weighted by smoke and the permeating sweetness. Both soften up and grow more complex with a small splash of water. The 18-years-old was considerably smoother than the 10-years-old, with what felt like sherry and a whiff of smoke or Lapsang Souchong tea on the attack, showing licorice, dry fruits and tobacco in the background; surprisingly complex for a peat monster.
The Lagavulin showed lots of leather and smoke with some subtle fruits in the background. A whiff of petrol – reminding of a well aged Riesling. More fruit and spices earlier on than the Laphroaigs. Sweet and peaty, growing smokier in the centre. A hint of licorice and a little bit of tar; an echo of Laphroaig? It starts out pretty smooth on the palate, growing drier in the finish. There is beautiful balance between peat and smoke.
As I prefer the smokier/peatier whiskies, I think thet the 18-years-old Laphroaig was slightly smoother and I preferred it to the Lagavulin, though the gang was almost equally divided in their preference. The 10-years-old was very good, but not as special as the others. Actually, to be honest, any time the men in kilts want to pour me a dram of any of the three, they are welcome.
© June 2010 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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