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Story and photography by Manos Angelakis
 Our mood had turned positively silly.
AnnaMarie is at the balcony of her room, at another hotel performing the balcony scene from Romeo & Juliet “O Romeo. Romeo! Wherefore art thou Romeo?” I have to remind her that this is Syracuse, not Verona.
On the other hand, I think I’m channeling my inner Archimedes, threatening to emerge out of our lovely Art  Nuveau room at the Hotel des Étrangeres et Miramare, number 118, which has a claw-footed bathtub in the middle of the bathroom. Clutching the beautifully aromatic soap that is part of the amenity package, I shout “Eureka!!!”
Syracuse is a very ancient city, going as far back as the Minoan village that was located on the small island where part of the modern city is now situated. Nearby, at the classical times city site, archeological excavations are uncovering layer by layer the Bronze Age Mycenaean trading post, the later Greek colony, the Roman city, the Aragonite outpost… all the Mediterranean civilizations that conquered and inhabited the island and left their marks on the land and the people.
 The modern city surrounds the ancient site where a Greco-Roman amphitheater is still in use for theatrical and musical events. While we were there, we saw posters promoting two ancient Greek tragedies, one by Aeschylus, the other “Oedipus in Colonus” by Sophocles, as well as a performance of a modern play “Waiting for Godot” by Samuel Beckett. The minimalist set seen in the ancient theater picture was used in both Oedipus and Godot.
 The renaissance and modern parts of the city are a warren of alleys and squares; Neo-classic municipal buildings, Neo-gothic and Romanesque cathedrals; and fountains decorated with mythical figures and animals, dominate the open spaces. One of the interesting modern amenities is the “municipal bicycle stands”. Situated in a number of squares closest to major points of interest, the municipal bicycle stands hold fifteen or so bicycles that can be rented using a card purchased at tobacconists or kiosks. The bicycles can be picked up at any place that has a rack, and deposited at any other place where another rack exists. The rental cost is minimal.
The food in Syracuse is typically Sicilian; seafood, local greens, and olive oil are the main ingredients. There are very good red wines, mostly based on Nero d’ Avola , an indigenous grape, and blends of Nero d’ Avola with international grapes, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Malvasia and Malvasia blends, from dry to very sweet, are poured as a white wine, brought over from the nearby Aeolian Islands, and, of course, grappa is the most popular aperitif as well as digestif. To me, the most interesting digestif was the Liquore di Ficodindia, a cherry-red liqueur made from prickly pears. It seems that when Columbus brought prickly rears to Europe from the Caribbean, he was thinking that the Caribbean islands he had landed on were indeed India. Therefore, the name Ficodindia, i.e. Indian figs.
The food market in the center of town offers to the housewives, as well as the restaurants surrounding the market, fresh fish, fresh sea food, a large variety of cheese, indigenous and exotic fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices, olives and olive oil, wine… everything needed to daily create luscious meals.
For a visitor, life can be great in Syracuse. You can spend days exploring the city and the archeological sites, tasting interesting food at the restaurants and trattorias and, of course, sampling the excellent wines and grappas. Most everything is within walking distance from your hotels and if not, you could rent a municipal bicycle and pedal where you wish to go. A city map is a necessity.
For further information, contact the Italian Government Tourist Board or visit their web site at www.italiantourism.com.
© September 2009 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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