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Story By Barbara Penny Angelakis
Photography by Manos Angelakis
Sardinia, or Sardegna its Italian name, is an island of mystery and magic… of ancient cultures and mythical festivals… part of Italy and yet, a land unto itself. Most everyone has heard of the island of Sardinia. But few know much about this jewel in the crown of the western Mediterranean that lies between Italy and Spain and just south of France. Sardinia’s nearest neighbor is the French Island of Corsica - of Napoleon infamy - that is actually closer to the mainland of Italy than to its suzerain France.
 Sardinia’s critical location in the Mediterranean accounts for the many cultural influences that today make it a unique destination. Although it is part of the Republic of Italy and Italian is the official language, the people consider themselves Sardinian and proudly celebrate their heritage by speaking Sardo, their traditional language, following age-old customs, preparing foods handed down over generations, and performing in a seasonal series of enormously appealing costumed festivals that seamlessly blend the earliest form of pagan Goddess worship with strict Catholic observance. For a complete listing of festivals and things to see and do, visit www.sardegnaturismo.it or www.italiantourism.com
Sardinia is an ancient volcanic island that since the Cambrian age has seen only minimal Vulcan activity. However, that fiery footprint accounts for the spectacular landscapes that have been sculpted by wind and water for over 450,000 years. Sardinia is an ancient land that can boast of being inhabited by human beings for much of that time and presents a rich archaeological record that is available to explore. Visitors to Sardinia can spend many intriguing days visiting Nuraghi (cone-shaped towers built from massive stones) that dot the landscape. Little is known of the Nuraghi people, the original inhabitants that lived between 1500 to 900 B.C.E., and built such amazingly sophisticated and architecturally complex constructs. Nor is it certain what these buildings were used for. Some think as tombs, others as fortifications, living spaces, or meeting and ceremonial sites. Whatever their past use or uses, currently the ruins invite an intriguing guessing game that is open to speculation.
My long awaited first visit to Sardinia was this past September, and we managed to visit several well preserved sites. The tomb of the giants at Coddu Vecchju, so named because of its massive stone edifice and elongated barrow type communal burial mound; and the Nuraghe Albucciu, which is perhaps the most completely excavated complex still standing, are within easy driving from the spectacular Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) on the north east coast of the island. www.legambientegallura.it From the outside the Nuraghe Albucciu looks very much like the many other monuments seen from the road, but once inside the building, one can not help but be awed by the vastness and thoughtful planning that went into its creation. It is a prime example of both the beehive or conical shape construction linked to large rectangular rooms built into the existing rock, making one imposing structure. Rooms are entered into through extensive corridors and staircases that are hewn from the living rock and which also lead to interior and exterior landings. It seems clear to me that the various building configurations we explored supported different uses and that one explanation does not fit all… but you must judge for yourself.
Sardinia has so much to offer, from a traditional Mediterranean beach holiday, to rock climbing and other extreme and not so extreme sports; to historical cityscapes and archaeological mysteries; to wine growing areas of remarkably good output and a cuisine derived from the land that is unusual and delicious … where to begin?
Flying into the airport near the principal city of Cagliari (pronounced Caliari) presented a natural beginning, and first stop was Forte Village a short distance away and the only purportedly Five Star Resort on the south shore.
 This is a village in the true sense of the word where many levels of accommodations are offered in different configurations, such as high-rise hotel, individual villas, two-story bungalows, etc. Some are facing the beach and water others are secluded away in the interior gardens that cover a lush 25-hectare area. Everything you could need or desire is readily available. There are restaurants in all ranges as well as bars and clubs; sporting activities that include a go-cart track, an outdoor ice-skating rink, tennis  and ball courts and other traditional sporting areas; shopping plaza with designer shops and boutiques; miles of beautifully manicured gardens; a children’s playground; and my personal favorite, a spa that includes a major Thalassotherapy center. While I found that the accommodations in general were disappointing and did not live up to the 5-star rating and price point that the Village hotels promoted, the spa proved to be top rate and well worth a visit (please see Spas segment).
Departing Forte Village, we took E25, the interior road that curves towards the west coast all the way to Porto Tórres at the top of the island. Just before veering off the E25 to the SS 131 towards the Costa Smeralda, we stopped at an architectural anomaly, the sacred well of Santa Cristina in Paulilatino. Purported to be a temple well dating to the 11th century B.C.E., the precise cutting and perfectly placed basalt stone steps and walls of the sacred well are curiously impressive even by today’s standards. The V shape or triangular entry at the opening and the wide steps leading to the natural spring indicate that this was a fertility site of the Mother Goddess. There is an opening or oculus (eye) cut into the earth and built up with stones into a mound a few feet beyond the opening. It is believed that on the summer solstice, the sun penetrates the eye to impregnate the waters out of which new life is free to emerge. Lending credence to this hypothesis are the mysterious reverse stairs cut into the roof, symbolically providing a way out just opposite to the way in. There is another theory that suggests that every 18.6 years, when the sun and moon cycles coincide, the full moon is the impregnating light… again, you judge for yourself.
Sardinia is crisscrossed with very good highways so covering large areas in a relatively short time is possible but make sure to leave sufficient time to actually investigate the intriguing sites along the way. It is better to cover less territory and take the time to explore the sites, relax over a meal, and talk to the very friendly locals.
 After visiting the Santa Cristina well and museum, we headed to lunch at Su Gologone in Oliena, which put us right back into the reason for our visit to Sardinia; good food... good wine... good company. Although considered a 4-Star resort and restaurant, the tasteful décor, authentic Sardinian farmhouse ambience, level of service and exquisite food, in my estimation deserve a plus rating. www.sugologone.it
The dining room is large and rustically appointed with  hand made decorative items and well-used cooking utensils proudly displayed. Along one wall is an open fire pit where piglets, sausages and other Sardinian specialties were slow roasting, permeating the air with mouthwatering scents. The welcoming staff immediately set about delivering plates to our table of fresh Ricotta, creamy Pecorino and several olive varieties; all grown and prepared on the property and served with the addictive Sardinian flat bread, Pane Carasao, that we saw prepared in the kitchen just prior to our meal. The local wine, a 2007  Nepente Di Oliena, from Cantina Oliena, 100% Cannonau Di Sardegna (see story on The Oenophile Blog) was served throughout. It was sufficiently acidic to compliment the richness of the meal, aromatic, and flavorful enough to stand on its own. Next came the appetizers of artichokes in dough pockets, fried cheese balls and fried bread with fennel and fresh baby zucchini in seasoned lemon oil with shaved Pecorino cheese, followed closely by octopus in aspic, whole wheat pasta with field mushrooms in a cream sauce, and cheese and fennel stuffed ravioli in  heavy cream. Each item was delicious unto itself and I had a hard time pacing myself with such an array of good food, perfectly prepared, using tried and true family recipes. By the time the main course of roast suckling piglet and sausage was served, I could barely take a bite and desert was out of the question. Still the meal was extraordinary and the range of selections awesome, a definite “don’t pass it up” restaurant.
Continuing on our way east to Costa Smeralda, and the seaside resort of Porto Cervo with its mesmerizing emerald waters was the highlight of my visit to Sardinia. If you have been following my travel adventures, by this time you are aware that I am awestruck by nature’s whimsy. Costa Smeralda is a natural wonder. It’s not surprising that once luxury tourism was developed in the mid-60’s by Karim Āgā Khān, the area became a draw for the rich and famous. The sandstone rock formations that occupy the landscape with organic and animated shapes are so spectacular that it is hard to travel this area without marveling at the creative talents of Mother Nature. Truly, she has fashioned an outdoor sculpture garden of changing form and surprising imagery.
We headed for a gala dinner at the Cala de Volpe Hotel, initially the Āgā Khān’s special private retreat for entertaining royalty and heads of state, and currently managed by Starwood as a 5-Star property. Since it was the end of the season and the hotel was in the process of closing for the winter we were not able to stay there but we enjoyed another memorable meal that lived up to the reputation of the hotel’s dining room.
Given the importance of the Costa Smeralda to the economy of the island, there is an airport in the main town of Olbia which saves the long drive from Cagliari but it would be a shame to miss the sightseeing, dining and wining opportunities traversing the island offers, so depending on time and season, take the high road and see it all.
© November 2008 LuxuryWeb Magazine. All rights reserved.
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